In and Out of Boston

Before you get too excited, no, In N Out did not just come to Boston so you still need to come to my neck of the woods for that burger with a following.  However, on our most recent New England visit, we purposely flew in and out of Boston so we can see family even if only for a few hours to and from our NH home base for the week.  With only a quick stop upon arrival at Mike's for cannoli that we enjoyed with this view, we did not get a chance to actually stop until the day we were flying out.   

 

 

I seem to find myself in Boston only about once a decade and unfortunately for only a day or less.  I am not sure if is subconsciously due to my dad growing up here before moving to NY for work but I have always had an inexplicable connection and longing for Boston just like the opening scene of Banacek rowing down the Charles River still tugs on his heart strings.  I did get a taste of the city via the hop on/hop off trolley during my first visit in the 90s and the aquarium during my second visit shortly after the millennium.  So it just seemed fitting that I get around to Faneuil Hall and Quincy Market this time around, even if only for a moment. 

 

Hopefully I will not have to wait another decade or until an In N Out actually does open in Boston before returning. 

Portsmouth, New Hampshire and Kittery, Maine - A Food Lover's Dream

With most Californians in the Bay Area living in the suburbs/outer suburbs in order to afford housing for under a million dollars, an hour to hour and a half daily commute each way is far too common.  Unlike the convenience of living in a large city like Manhattan or San Francisco where access to almost anything is often within a few block radius most of us are lucky if we can find a good non-fast food restaurant within a 20 minute drive.  Needless to say, staying 20-25 minutes from both Portsmouth, New Hampshire and Kittery, Maine is a food lover’s dream. 

With Kittery quickly establishing itself as an up-and-coming food destination, we found ourselves here for half our dinners, Black Birch the first night - http://aroundthebayandaway.blogspot.com/2016/07/california-massachusetts-new-hampshire.html, Blind Pig Provisions the next, and Anju the last.    

Just across a pedestrian bridge from Portsmouth, NH, you will easily find Blind Pig Provisions on Badger’s Island in Kittery, ME.  With a great outdoor seating area overlooking the water to enjoy the beautiful sunset with a glass of wine and a warm inviting interior where the workers do not take themselves too seriously if their sign is any indication, it is no wonder Mainers know “the way life should be”. 

 

I could not resist starting with dueling clam chowders with a cup each of Manhattan and New England giving me the best of both worlds.  The three little pigs entrée that followed of pulled pork, pork belly, and crispy skin was a bit rich for me since I was now chock full of clams after consuming both clam chowders, so since it was shellfish free, I passed that off after a taste.  The halibut on the other hand was moist and flavorful and light enough leaving me with just enough room to walk across the state line back to Popovers on the Square in Portsmouth to give those popovers another shot. 

 

 

Now I understand why food critics try a restaurant up to 3 times before reviewing as I happily discovered that hollow top I complained about from Day 1 was just a one off.  Just like that food critic, we did end up here 3 times in 6 days for those popovers with maple butter to go. 

No longer use to the East Coast humidity, we realized we had to do laundry by Day 4 and found a Laundromat in trusty Portsmouth.  I took that opportunity to get myself another lobster roll from nearby Beach Plum in North Hampton before heading out.  Although previously tempted to walk the 3 miles each way from Hampton Beach for lunch here, since I am new in town and no longer in half marathon training shape, I did not want to chance finding my way back in the heat after lunch. 

Since we arrived right before 6, there was barely a line.  With a choice of 6, 8, or 10 oz of meat for the lobster roll or 12-20 oz for foot longs, I would not have hesitated in going for the 20 oz if only I had immediate access to a fridge for the other half.  Before long, I had my box with my 10 oz roll and a bag of chips that I held carefully in my hand like a priceless vase.  If Red’s Eats is the best lobster roll in Maine, Beach Plum is a contender for the best lobster roll in New Hampshire.  Teeming with fresh sweet claw meat lightly tossed with mayo, I could not stop eating it that as we pulled into Portsmouth 20 minutes later, all that was left in my box was that bag of chips. 

 

 

 

My husband found Street in Portsmouth by chance since it was just two blocks away from the Laundromat, perfect to grab a bite in between the wash and dry cycle.  Having already put away a 10 oz lobster roll, I was mainly there for company but did sample both the savory and sweet empanadas while my husband finally had dinner, a Korean beef bibipmap.  The dessert empanadas were filled with piping hot bread pudding topped with cinnamon sugar, prompting me to agree with my friend’s motto that there is always room for dessert! 

 

We definitely saved the best for last as our last full day in New England was filled with 5 star eats with lunch at Apple Farm Bistro - http://aroundthebayandaway.blogspot.com/2016/07/hampton-beach-and-falls-new-hampshire.html and dinner at Anju.  Our first dinner on this trip was in Kittery so it seemed fitting that our last was as well.  The open kitchen at Anju allows you to see first hand the flawless execution of the dishes, tempting you to order one of everything on the menu. 

 

Saddled with the difficult task of choosing, we started with a light and refreshing strawberry and mango salad, a perfect start to the meal.  Then to continue MY shellfish extravaganza, went with the brown buttered seared scallops over carrot harissa hummus so tasty, I was wishing for more.  The creatively presented ginger golden beets were diced small enough, made to look like a creamy risotto kept this dish clean and me satisfied without feeling stuffed.  Not to be left out, my husband had the braised boneless short rib rendang immersed in an Indonesian sauce layered in coconut farro.  The sweet coconut and the mildly spiced stewed beef gave each bite a perfect contrast of sweet and savory, making Anju the memorable meal of this trip and why I wish I found this place sooner so I could have returned for the other half of the menu. 

 

 

 

 

Spoiled by the easy access to great food at reasonable prices in comparison, it is hard adjusting back to California life. 
 

California, Massachusetts, New Hampshire, and Maine in a Day

If you thought my adventure through Maine in a day is impressive, how about being in 4 different states in a day?  Living in California now for over 20 years and rarely venturing out of NJ/NY when I lived back East for 9 years, I almost forgot how close many of the states are to each other along the Eastern Seaboard. 

 

CA to MA

Starting out on my flight from California, we arrived in Boston early morning via the red eye, reflective of what I probably looked like (red eyed) after almost 24 hours of no sleep.  Arriving to Boston via train and car in the past, I never realized how beautiful the descent is into the area by air, until we flew over mesmerizing greenery giving me a much needed boost of endorphins and a reminder of how much I love this city.  With only time for one stop in this super short reunion before we had to start heading up New England, we just beat the crowds at Mike’s Pastry in the North End, famous for cannolis that are still memorable thirteen years later.  With different flavors offered each day in addition to the new traditional chocolate chip (I say new traditional as the candied fruit ones were my original traditional from my East Coast days), I got almost one of each.  I was pleasantly surprised by the mint chocolate chip, could never go wrong with pistachio, but would take a pass on the Florentine.  Cannolis for breakfast after a red eye flight that I did not sleep a wink on, is a perfect way to start our New England visit. 

 

 

 

Although it was a bit soon to be thinking about lunch right after breakfast, I knew I had to make the most of my time here.  I have filed “try Ipswich clams” in the back of my mind as a bucket list item even before people had bucket lists.  So as soon as I found out I was going to New England, it was pulled out as one of my “must eat” items on this trip and a detour to the Clam Box in Ipswich was immediately planned.  With long lines being the norm, I wanted to arrive when it opened and just like Mike’s, the time management God was on my side again with only 2 people in front of us but after we ordered and turned around, there was that line!  After consuming 3 decadent cannolis less than 2 hours before, we both opted for the mini meal with 1 side vs. the plate that comes with 2 sides.  As I sank my teeth into my full belly Ipswich native clams, poor shellfish intolerant hubby did get a delicious consolation prize, a moist and perfectly cooked fried haddock to enjoy at the outdoor picnic tables since it was such a beautifully warm day.  Due to increased clam costs, clam plates and boxes may have an additional surcharge on top of their regular prices. 

 

MA to NH

We arrived into Hampton Beach, NH by early afternoon in hopes of taking a nap before dinner but alas, our luck ran out and our room was not ready.  Running low on fumes, we needed a break from the busyness and spring break like atmosphere of Hampton Beach so we proceeded to the quaint town of Portsmouth, just a 20 minute drive away.  Centered around the Market Square, it was reminiscent of Zurich but without the language barrier, making this a great place to walk around browsing the shops, restaurants, and other hidden gems. 

 

 

 

 

Ever since the first time I had popovers as the “free bread” at Tyler Florence’s Wayfare Tavern in SF, I have been obsessed with popovers so no better time than the present for my first of many planned visits to Popover on the Square.  Although my first one did not quite compare to Tyler Florence’s since the top was too hollow and therefore just crunchy on top, the maple butter served alongside made me forgive almost anything.  Fortunately it was only a one off as I later discovered. 

Naturally there were more people on the weekends in Portsmouth but without the overwhelming touristy feel that Portland, Maine has to deal with during peak season.  Surprisingly one place that was a respite for us was Prescott Park.  Even though there were others around looking at the beautiful flowers and greenery while we parked ourselves on a bench (pun intended), it exuded a sense of peacefulness and serenity, giving us a break from our action packed day. 

   

  

 

NH to ME

Since we did not get the call that our room was done until close to dinner time, we took advantage of Portsmouth’s close proximity and hopped across another state line, less than a 5 minute drive across the water to Kittery, Maine for an early dinner a little after 4.  Since we already had Black Birch planned for our first night dinner spot, I was a bit surprised that the menu was different than expected, only to discover upon leaving that only a light bites/bar menu is offered before 5.  No problem for us since we were not all that hungry at 4.  Two orders of deviled eggs 3 ways (Mexican corn, potato salad, and BLT), chicken liver mousse with strawberry jam and the grilled cheese and tomato soup later, we were completely satisfied eating our way through 3 states in one day. 

 

 

Maine, The Way Life Should Be

We only had one full day free during my husband’s NH business trip so we had to go to Maine, to experience “The Way Life Should Be”. 

 

 

After rejuvenating with 11 hours sleep after 36 hours of no sleep, I was bright eyed and bushy tailed by 6AM and ready to tackle the 2 hrs up to our first stop of Portland, Maine to have pie for breakfast.  It was only by chance that I found out about Two Fat Cats, through a PBS show I recorded called A Few Good Pie Places.  Two Fat Cats was featured and known for the two desserts high on my list to try in Maine, the wild Maine blueberry pie, the official state dessert and the whoopie pie, the official state treat.  They only have one flavor sold by the slice daily with the rest whole pies only.  Luckily the slice of the day was the wild Maine blueberry pie but of course after eating our slices, we were almost wishing we had the whole pie.  On the flipside, it left us with enough room for the whoopie pie, cream sandwiched between two soft cookie sized cakes.  Another hit!! 

 

  

 

Arriving so early in the morning, we were able to explore Portland during the quiet morning hours before it got too crowded. 

 

As we walked down the waterfront stopping by Rosemont Market for a pint of milk
from a local Maine farm

and some Maine blueberry jam to bring home to my dad, we found ourselves passing by Standard Baking Co. which I discovered via another PBS show, A Few Good Bakeries. 
I could not resist popping in for two fresh morning buns to go for our breakfast the next morning since they did not specify which morning we had to enjoy them.  With a limited lot shared with the hotel next door, there is a person monitoring when you leave so you do not overstay your welcome.  Overall another fun little bakeshop in Portland!  

 

 

Originally planning on spending the day and grabbing a lobster roll in Portland, I was sold when both my cousin from Boston and my Maine loving friend recommended Red’s Eats another hour north in Wiscasset.  With over a whole lobster in each roll, it really does live up to the hype of the “Best Lobster Roll in Maine”.  With a choice of butter or with mayo, I always choose butter as it brings out the sweetness in the lobster meat but I recommend dipping the meat in the warm butter and then putting back in the roll for a bite vs. pouring it on directly as the butter solidifies too quickly when it hits the cool lobster meat. 

 

We arrived 10 minutes after they opened hoping for the same luck we had the previous day at the Clam Box.  No such luck as it was still an hour wait but worth every minute of it. 

 

 

Taking advantage of the wait time, we took turns exploring the side streets and came upon Old Salt Books and Gifts where I could not resist picking up some more Maine blueberry jam and syrup by Forgotten Recipes and blueberry sodas to go with lunch. 

Now back to that line for that lobster roll.  Lobster is my favorite food that it is a wonder how I ended up marrying someone with shellfish allergies but luckily Red’s had great options for them too.  The Boss Burger, a bacon cheeseburger with lettuce, tomatoes, homemade onion rings (in the burger) and bleu cheese dressing or any burger for that matter is made with beef ground daily by a local market in nearby Damariscotta, so fresh that some compare it to filet mignon on a bun.  Final verdict, juicy, flavorful, and disappeared faster than me and my lobster roll. 

 

After lunch, in search of a public restroom, we came upon some wonderful sites that I wish we had more time to explore Wiscasset. 

 

 

 

But we needed to head off for a scenic, off the beaten path drive my friend recommended to Harpswell/Orrs Island boasting beautiful coastline scenery. 

 

 

 

Although we did not see any lobstermen along the way as she had, we did run across their equipment, almost tempting me to try my hand at it, if only I knew where to begin. 

 

 

 

Word may be starting to get out on this peaceful stretch of Maine though so go before the calm that draws you here may not be as quiet as you hoped. 

 

 

 

Losing ourselves in the drive, we kept going until we made it to Land’s End where I had my first and only “moose” sighting. 

 

 

 

Beginning our return trek southbound, we had to stop by one of the lighthouses that Maine is famous for and the postcard perfect Portland Headlight did not disappoint. 

Finally, onto Kennebunkport, our dinner destination and another town I would have liked to explore further but unable to due to our limited time.  We arrived early enough to snag a seat at Mabel’s Lobster Claw, one of my friend’s favorites and apparently of the Bush family when they are in town.  It would have been quite a sighting too as the designated Bush table was within cornbread throwing distance, just 2 tables away from us.  Although the lobster entrees were tempting since “When in Maine…”, I did not want to go into lobster overload all in one day so compromised and went for the baked shrimp stuffed with chunks of Maine lobster while hubs got the blackened swordfish special of the day. 

 
 

 

 

 

Continuing the “When in Maine” mentality, we had to try the blueberry pie a la mode but I have to say although the ice cream was good, I was underwhelmed by the pie in comparison to the slice we started the day with at Two Fat Cats. 
 

 

 

Although within walking distance, perfect to walk off a rich meal, due to limited time, we drove the mile or so to the overlook of the Bush Compound and had the area all to ourselves on a warm Sunday evening to end our day before heading back down to New Hampshire. 

Not bad even if I say so myself, considering we only had a day in Maine.  Imagine what I could have done with two…