Portsmouth, New Hampshire and Kittery, Maine - A Food Lover's Dream

With most Californians in the Bay Area living in the suburbs/outer suburbs in order to afford housing for under a million dollars, an hour to hour and a half daily commute each way is far too common.  Unlike the convenience of living in a large city like Manhattan or San Francisco where access to almost anything is often within a few block radius most of us are lucky if we can find a good non-fast food restaurant within a 20 minute drive.  Needless to say, staying 20-25 minutes from both Portsmouth, New Hampshire and Kittery, Maine is a food lover’s dream. 

With Kittery quickly establishing itself as an up-and-coming food destination, we found ourselves here for half our dinners, Black Birch the first night - http://aroundthebayandaway.blogspot.com/2016/07/california-massachusetts-new-hampshire.html, Blind Pig Provisions the next, and Anju the last.    

Just across a pedestrian bridge from Portsmouth, NH, you will easily find Blind Pig Provisions on Badger’s Island in Kittery, ME.  With a great outdoor seating area overlooking the water to enjoy the beautiful sunset with a glass of wine and a warm inviting interior where the workers do not take themselves too seriously if their sign is any indication, it is no wonder Mainers know “the way life should be”. 

 

I could not resist starting with dueling clam chowders with a cup each of Manhattan and New England giving me the best of both worlds.  The three little pigs entrée that followed of pulled pork, pork belly, and crispy skin was a bit rich for me since I was now chock full of clams after consuming both clam chowders, so since it was shellfish free, I passed that off after a taste.  The halibut on the other hand was moist and flavorful and light enough leaving me with just enough room to walk across the state line back to Popovers on the Square in Portsmouth to give those popovers another shot. 

 

 

Now I understand why food critics try a restaurant up to 3 times before reviewing as I happily discovered that hollow top I complained about from Day 1 was just a one off.  Just like that food critic, we did end up here 3 times in 6 days for those popovers with maple butter to go. 

No longer use to the East Coast humidity, we realized we had to do laundry by Day 4 and found a Laundromat in trusty Portsmouth.  I took that opportunity to get myself another lobster roll from nearby Beach Plum in North Hampton before heading out.  Although previously tempted to walk the 3 miles each way from Hampton Beach for lunch here, since I am new in town and no longer in half marathon training shape, I did not want to chance finding my way back in the heat after lunch. 

Since we arrived right before 6, there was barely a line.  With a choice of 6, 8, or 10 oz of meat for the lobster roll or 12-20 oz for foot longs, I would not have hesitated in going for the 20 oz if only I had immediate access to a fridge for the other half.  Before long, I had my box with my 10 oz roll and a bag of chips that I held carefully in my hand like a priceless vase.  If Red’s Eats is the best lobster roll in Maine, Beach Plum is a contender for the best lobster roll in New Hampshire.  Teeming with fresh sweet claw meat lightly tossed with mayo, I could not stop eating it that as we pulled into Portsmouth 20 minutes later, all that was left in my box was that bag of chips. 

 

 

 

My husband found Street in Portsmouth by chance since it was just two blocks away from the Laundromat, perfect to grab a bite in between the wash and dry cycle.  Having already put away a 10 oz lobster roll, I was mainly there for company but did sample both the savory and sweet empanadas while my husband finally had dinner, a Korean beef bibipmap.  The dessert empanadas were filled with piping hot bread pudding topped with cinnamon sugar, prompting me to agree with my friend’s motto that there is always room for dessert! 

 

We definitely saved the best for last as our last full day in New England was filled with 5 star eats with lunch at Apple Farm Bistro - http://aroundthebayandaway.blogspot.com/2016/07/hampton-beach-and-falls-new-hampshire.html and dinner at Anju.  Our first dinner on this trip was in Kittery so it seemed fitting that our last was as well.  The open kitchen at Anju allows you to see first hand the flawless execution of the dishes, tempting you to order one of everything on the menu. 

 

Saddled with the difficult task of choosing, we started with a light and refreshing strawberry and mango salad, a perfect start to the meal.  Then to continue MY shellfish extravaganza, went with the brown buttered seared scallops over carrot harissa hummus so tasty, I was wishing for more.  The creatively presented ginger golden beets were diced small enough, made to look like a creamy risotto kept this dish clean and me satisfied without feeling stuffed.  Not to be left out, my husband had the braised boneless short rib rendang immersed in an Indonesian sauce layered in coconut farro.  The sweet coconut and the mildly spiced stewed beef gave each bite a perfect contrast of sweet and savory, making Anju the memorable meal of this trip and why I wish I found this place sooner so I could have returned for the other half of the menu. 

 

 

 

 

Spoiled by the easy access to great food at reasonable prices in comparison, it is hard adjusting back to California life. 
 

California, Massachusetts, New Hampshire, and Maine in a Day

If you thought my adventure through Maine in a day is impressive, how about being in 4 different states in a day?  Living in California now for over 20 years and rarely venturing out of NJ/NY when I lived back East for 9 years, I almost forgot how close many of the states are to each other along the Eastern Seaboard. 

 

CA to MA

Starting out on my flight from California, we arrived in Boston early morning via the red eye, reflective of what I probably looked like (red eyed) after almost 24 hours of no sleep.  Arriving to Boston via train and car in the past, I never realized how beautiful the descent is into the area by air, until we flew over mesmerizing greenery giving me a much needed boost of endorphins and a reminder of how much I love this city.  With only time for one stop in this super short reunion before we had to start heading up New England, we just beat the crowds at Mike’s Pastry in the North End, famous for cannolis that are still memorable thirteen years later.  With different flavors offered each day in addition to the new traditional chocolate chip (I say new traditional as the candied fruit ones were my original traditional from my East Coast days), I got almost one of each.  I was pleasantly surprised by the mint chocolate chip, could never go wrong with pistachio, but would take a pass on the Florentine.  Cannolis for breakfast after a red eye flight that I did not sleep a wink on, is a perfect way to start our New England visit. 

 

 

 

Although it was a bit soon to be thinking about lunch right after breakfast, I knew I had to make the most of my time here.  I have filed “try Ipswich clams” in the back of my mind as a bucket list item even before people had bucket lists.  So as soon as I found out I was going to New England, it was pulled out as one of my “must eat” items on this trip and a detour to the Clam Box in Ipswich was immediately planned.  With long lines being the norm, I wanted to arrive when it opened and just like Mike’s, the time management God was on my side again with only 2 people in front of us but after we ordered and turned around, there was that line!  After consuming 3 decadent cannolis less than 2 hours before, we both opted for the mini meal with 1 side vs. the plate that comes with 2 sides.  As I sank my teeth into my full belly Ipswich native clams, poor shellfish intolerant hubby did get a delicious consolation prize, a moist and perfectly cooked fried haddock to enjoy at the outdoor picnic tables since it was such a beautifully warm day.  Due to increased clam costs, clam plates and boxes may have an additional surcharge on top of their regular prices. 

 

MA to NH

We arrived into Hampton Beach, NH by early afternoon in hopes of taking a nap before dinner but alas, our luck ran out and our room was not ready.  Running low on fumes, we needed a break from the busyness and spring break like atmosphere of Hampton Beach so we proceeded to the quaint town of Portsmouth, just a 20 minute drive away.  Centered around the Market Square, it was reminiscent of Zurich but without the language barrier, making this a great place to walk around browsing the shops, restaurants, and other hidden gems. 

 

 

 

 

Ever since the first time I had popovers as the “free bread” at Tyler Florence’s Wayfare Tavern in SF, I have been obsessed with popovers so no better time than the present for my first of many planned visits to Popover on the Square.  Although my first one did not quite compare to Tyler Florence’s since the top was too hollow and therefore just crunchy on top, the maple butter served alongside made me forgive almost anything.  Fortunately it was only a one off as I later discovered. 

Naturally there were more people on the weekends in Portsmouth but without the overwhelming touristy feel that Portland, Maine has to deal with during peak season.  Surprisingly one place that was a respite for us was Prescott Park.  Even though there were others around looking at the beautiful flowers and greenery while we parked ourselves on a bench (pun intended), it exuded a sense of peacefulness and serenity, giving us a break from our action packed day. 

   

  

 

NH to ME

Since we did not get the call that our room was done until close to dinner time, we took advantage of Portsmouth’s close proximity and hopped across another state line, less than a 5 minute drive across the water to Kittery, Maine for an early dinner a little after 4.  Since we already had Black Birch planned for our first night dinner spot, I was a bit surprised that the menu was different than expected, only to discover upon leaving that only a light bites/bar menu is offered before 5.  No problem for us since we were not all that hungry at 4.  Two orders of deviled eggs 3 ways (Mexican corn, potato salad, and BLT), chicken liver mousse with strawberry jam and the grilled cheese and tomato soup later, we were completely satisfied eating our way through 3 states in one day. 

 

 

Hampton Beach and Falls, New Hampshire

Hubby’s work made us stagnant on our quest to visit all 50 states but ironically his work helped kickstart that quest once again.  Fast forward to 11 years later, he got sent on 3 business trips in 3 months opening up an opportunity for me to tag-a-long for the price of airfare and food.  Choosing among Minnesota, although tempting since I probably would not make a trip out to Minnesota otherwise, New Hampshire, or Arizona, it was a no brainer for me.  I had to jump at the chance to visit New Hampshire for multiple reasons, its proximity to Maine, a lobster lover’s paradise making it one of the top states I have yet to visit, and Boston to visit my 93 year old aunt who I had not seen since 2002. 

We were fortunate to be allowed to fly out on the red eye on Friday night giving us the weekend to settle in and explore before he had to work on Monday.  Upon arrival into Hampton Beach, I admit I was overwhelmed by the amount of people and umbrellas that dotted what seemed like every inch of it, bringing back less than pleasant memories of the Jersey Shore on a summer weekend.  But once the weekdays rolled around and most schools were back in session, it was pleasantly calmer for leisurely strolls to either end of the beach where you can wet your feet or plop down for a little roti tanning action for an hour or two. 

 

 

 

 

Since I was on my own during the weekdays, I cannot complain being "stranded" at the Ashworth by the Sea for 3 days. 

 

 

 

 

Water in the Atlantic is colder than what I am used to here in the Pacific but it does feel nice when the beach heats up and because of the boardwalk, it has something for everyone from a casino for adults to multiple arcades and a Funarama for kids and those of us who are still young at heart. 

 

One caveat for someone where food is an important part of travel is the limitation to fried food, greasy pizza, and fried dough along the stretch.  So what do you do when you want something more than typical boardwalk fare but not quite overpriced hotel restaurant food either?  Enter Lupe’s 55 that just opened last season.  With options of rice bowls, burritos, and tacos, I knew I had to try their haddock tacos.  Admittedly it was fried haddock but having the slaw, lime juice, and tomato based hot sauce all wrapped in a tortilla just seemed to make it better.  Not cheap at $10 for 2 tacos but it wasn’t overly priced either for what you get.  Highly recommend supporting this alternate to typical boardwalk fare.  I did, two days in a row!! 

 

 

However, after 2 days of haddock tacos, I was looking for a change in scenery.  So since my husband got a chance to take his lunch hour on his last day, he found a relatively new farm to table eatery, Applecrest Farm Bistro - http://farmbistro.com/, in the midst of a working farm and orchard in nearby Hampton Falls - http://applecrest.com/.  We started off intending to share a pulled pork flatbread topped with peaches and green onion and a side of duck fat potatoes.  Halfway through, we realized we were hungrier for more of the delicious offerings and splurged on the Ploughman’s Special charcuterie plate with Merguez Sausage, pickled vegetables, egg, and duck and pork terrine.  The savory meats were great on its own or paired with the sweet chutney or blueberry jam.  What a gem of a find!! 

 

 

Attached to the bistro is the Apple Farm Orchards, a huge market selling everything from New Hampshire maple syrup which I heard was even better than its Vermont counterpart, to peach ciders, to fresh fruit including the wild Maine blueberries and their own farm grown fruits.  Needless to say, I stocked up on NH maple syrup, peach cider, and peach crisp mix to bring back home for ourselves and family. 

 

 

Despite the overwhelming start, I grew fond of Hampton Beach and miss seeing this first thing in the morning.