Just
like one of my favorite animals on Earth, the Giant Panda, to much deserved
fanfare, the humpback whales have quietly also been reclassified from
endangered to vulnerable just last year thanks to hard work and conservation.
But
unlike the generally solitary panda which is nearly impossible to see in the
wild, sightings of humpback whales in its natural environment is more
accessible especially in the Hawaiian waters thanks to the Hawaiian Islands
Humpback Whale National Marine Sanctuary created back in 1992 to protect the
humpbacks’ Hawaiian habitat. Thousands
make the long trip from frigid Alaska to the
warm waters of Hawai`i
to mate or give birth and to teach their pups the basics before making the long
journey back.
The Past
I
was lucky enough to have been in Maui during peak whale season (December –
March) 13 years ago where I was treated to sightings right from our lanai while
eating breakfast overlooking the Au Au Channel between Maui and Lana`i. Scanning the horizon for what looks like
puffs of “smoke” which is actually a water spray and then patiently training
our eyes on that area to be treated to a fin slap, tail slap, or if lucky the
whale breaching made us squeal like a dolphin!!
That
created a fan and follower out of me supporting organizations like Whalesong
Project - http://whalesong.net/ and the
Pacific Whale Foundation www.pacificwhale.org,
also designated as my Amazon Smile recipient.
The Present
Thirteen
years later, I was given an incredible opportunity thanks to a friend to return for a closer look
and what better operator to go with than the Pacific Whale Foundation – www.pacificwhale.org, a non profit with
a mission to research and educate the public about whales. Unfortunately my first attempt was a bust as
there were some issues with the generator resulting in a minimum 45 minute
delay so I rescheduled for two days later.
The silver lining in that cloud was I was able to see a pod right from
Ka`anapali Beach that afternoon as they took turns breaching, not once (already
a treat to see), not twice (that would be amazing), but 5 times (had to pinch
myself to see if I was dreaming)!
Sorry
to burst your bubble so early but the three is not your typical family dynamic
that you imagine but is actually mama, baby, and their male escort/wannabe baby
daddy for next year or as our naturalist at the PWF puts so diplomatically, her
Maui boyfriend. So yes, I did go out on
that whale watching cruise two days later on April Fool’s Day and was treated
to a whale of a show that was no joke.
With April being the tail end of whale season,
we would have considered ourselves lucky to have a sighting or two of that
“tail end” and after 30+ minutes of quiet where the only thing breaching was a
jumping fish, I was already mentally preparing myself for third time being a
charm. As we braved into rougher waters,
learning that what attracts them to the waters of Hawai`i are the warm waters to give birth
and the clear waters for mama to be able to keep her eye on her baby in case
he/she already gets a case of wanderlust, we finally had our first sighting. We carefully followed making sure to keep the
minimum 100 yard legal distance as we rocked and rolled along glad that they
ate their 1-2 tons of krill per day in Alaska giving them enough to live off
their reserves as they fast during their journey to and from Hawai`i and while
on island instead of eyeing us like tasty morsels. The majestic sight of one breaching from the
12 to 1’o clock position shortly after did make me wonder how big they were
prior to their “diet”. Now that mama got
our undivided attention, baby got to practice and show off her cute baby “tail
slaps” every so often keeping us entertained for the next 15-30 minutes. Just when we thought it just could not get
better than this, as we watched a mama and a baby emerge from the 10 o’clock
position, we got mugged by her Mau`i boyfriend as he glided out from under our
boat to join the pod. Although our
vessel is expected to keep that 100 yard distance, the whales do not get the
same memo and are free to approach us as they please. If they choose to do so, the vessel is
required to remain where they are until the whale is a safe distance, hence the
term, mugging your boat. I have never
been so happy to say I have been mugged in my life.
Unfortunately
due to the rough waters they were in that day, the unpredictable timing of
nature and Murphy’s Law where my camera malfunctioned that prevented me from
getting the money shots, I gave up halfway through it and learned a great
lesson in the process. So many of us too
often these days look at the world from behind a lens or a phone instead of
truly enjoying the experience that can be unfolding right in front of our own
eyes. This was definitely a surreal
experience that pictures or videos would not have done it any justice plus the
flip flop of the sky, ocean, sky, ocean that would convey only motion sickness
it was probably a blessing in disguise.
Besides, now you all have an excuse to experience it for yourself. Whale season in Hawai`i starts mid-December and runs through
mid-April with peak sightings during January and February so if you do not
catch the tail end of this season (pun intended), it is never too early to
start planning for next season.
The Future
Despite
the beautiful sanctuary, threats still lurk from within, with entanglements
still all too common as demonstrated by an emaciated sub adult’s encounter with
a PVC insulated electrical type cable just last month and vessel collisions. It is a reminder that we cannot sit on our
laurels and get too comfortable but need to be even more motivated with our
conservation efforts now that we are actually seeing some progress from the
hard work. After seeing these gentle
giants up close, it is as unfathomable to imagine a world without humpbacks as
a world without Giant Pandas.
Amazing story Joyce!
ReplyDeleteThanks Hazel!
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