Return to the Simpler Times at McCloud

Nestled at the base of majestic Mt. Shasta is former lumber mill town McCloud, CA.  A town so small, Main Street is about two blocks long and my server at my second night’s dinner is the sister of the server from my first night’s dinner. 

Ironically it was not Mt. Shasta or even the gorgeous waterfalls that put this town on my radar.  Instead, it was charming McCloud Hotel that I first saw on Chelsea Davis’ Instagram reel in the middle of winter that I could not get out of my mind. 

 

McCloud Hotel

Boasting 16 rooms and suites in the main inn between two floors, each has its own charm 

offering free Wi-Fi just in case you really must stay connected but no TV except in the common area downstairs to free you from unnecessary distractions.  

Cabinets full of simple board games and a plethora of books in their library downstairs will keep you occupied in a tech-no way. 

Start the day with a cooked to order breakfast for pickup at the lobby to enjoy right at the lobby, back in the room, outside in the porch, or gardens.  You can take bed and breakfast literally and have breakfast in bed with a good cozy mystery. 

Although not chosen for breakfast, the porch ended up being my favorite spot to unwind whether it is enjoying takeout lunch from White Mountain Café right down the street, after chasing waterfalls at Burney and McCloud Falls or kicking my feet up for wine o’clock with a glass of wine after a long drive up or day exploring. 

After dinner either onsite at the delicious Sage Restaurant or historic downtown just steps away, roast s’mores at the firepit 

before retiring to your room, ending the day with a little more mystery over a game of Clue in what seemed like an appropriate setting. 

 

Sage Restaurant

After being closed for over two years since the pandemic hit, Sage Restaurant inside the charming McCloud Hotel officially reopened on May 18^th.  Even though it was Friday the 13^th, luck was on our side with a soft opening for hotel guests and a last-minute addition of a fresh Columbia River Steelhead with wild mushrooms, spring peas, pine nuts, and farro to the menu.  So phenomenal, I reconsidered my dinner plans for a possible repeat the following day which in retrospect, I regretted not doing. 

McCloud Meat Market and Tavern

Harvest Dining Group has reopened in the Meat Market housed in the Mercantile Building that makes up half of Downtown McCloud where a double pork chop was calling my name.  However, two fish dishes for the win as just like Sage’s steelhead, it was the king salmon special that would bring me back. 

 

Burney Falls

About a 40-mile, 45-minute drive from McCloud and a $10 per car fee, you are in for a treat at beautiful Burney Falls in the Cascade Mountains, our first stop in the morning before the crowd descends.  A short walk to the overlook rewards you with your first glimpse of this spectacular fall from above 

and the easy one-mile loop descending a gentle 5% grade into the valley will bring you to the foot of the falls.  Two large streams cascading from above accompanied by curtains of water from underground streams creates a majestic view of this 129-foot powerhouse at the base. 

Although most of the falls is hidden from view along the trail down, there are definitely plenty of opportunities which I took advantage of to stop and take pictures whenever it appears throughout the walk down.  Admittedly I was as delighted by my 5^th glance as I was by my first as each was unique and many times with little rainbows appearing due to the water spray from the cascades. 

Although California has been in a severe drought that dries up most other falls by summer, you can count on Burney Falls to still give you a show year-round.  In mid-spring, the falls were definitely in full force rewarding us with a majestic showing up close and the occasional cooling mist. 

 

McCloud Falls

About half an hour away from Burney on the way back to McCloud is the three-tiered McCloud Falls with Lower McCloud Falls, Middle Falls, and Upper Falls.  With the option to drive to each fall and view with a short walk to the overlooks or hike between each among trees, wildflowers and beautiful cliffside lookouts, you can spend as much or little time as you want. 

 

Upper Falls

We started at the Upper Falls with its 30 feet drop into the pool known as “a place of sustenance for Native peoples”.   For thousands of years, Native tribes lived here during the non-winter months coming from the North, South, and East to hunt elk and fish the abundant rainbow trout present in both the upper and middle falls. 

 

Middle Falls

The 50-foot tall middle falls is a relatively short distance away between the two where in the time it takes for you to go back to your car and drive down, you would have reached it by foot.  These falls are a “reminder of the forces of nature that are constantly reshaping our world”.  The waterfall is formed by stronger rock that remained after the more fragile ones were carved away by the McCloud River.   

 

Lower Falls

Short on time, we decided to drive to the Lower Falls or what the Winnemem Wintu name Nurunwitipom (the falls where salmon turn back) where “the beauty and nourishment has always drawn people”.  These days, it is also a popular spot for many to take a break for lunch at the picnic tables.  For us, we were more interested in seeing and hearing the 12-15 foot drop of the lower falls into the emerald green pool where people today are still fishing. 

Whatever the reason, it is worth the stop and the time to these 3 beautiful falls just 15 minutes outside of McCloud. 

Mossbrea Falls

About half an hour away from McCloud in the city of Dunsmuir is Mossbrea Falls.  Access to these falls require a mile long hike along the still active Union Pacific Railroad tracks.  Due to places where the train may narrowly miss you and there is chance for injury, I personally did not go while another person in my party did so be advised, you are going at your own risk.  

If you do plan on taking that risk, do not wear headphones so you can hear the train coming from afar giving you time to find a safer and wider space. 

There has been talk for years about creating a bridge over the river for safer access but requires permission from Union Pacific Railroad to complete so unfortunately will not be anytime soon. 

Lake McCloud Reservoir

Although very popular in the summer for jet skiing, boating, and fishing for rainbow trout and German brown trout, Lake McCloud Reservoir was extremely quiet on a spring afternoon with just a kayak or two.  When the dock is in, a valid day use or annual parking permit is required to park there.  However, with the water level very low like most of California, visually obvious where the previous water level had been, the dock was out. 

Nevertheless, its distinctive green color, unique to the area, as a result of a combination of suspended sand, volcanic ash and other particulate matter, is still a sight to see. 

 

Historic Downtown McCloud

Main Street itself is only about 2 blocks long consisting of a handful of restaurants, shops, and 2 hotels, McCloud Hotel where we stayed and the McCloud River Mercantile Hotel.  A couple of side streets with another inn and eatery completes Historic Downtown.  

So quiet upon arrival on a Friday afternoon, we literally had it all to ourselves for our leisurely stroll and while relaxing on the porch at McCloud Hotel during wine hour, it was a good 10 minutes before a single car drove by. 

Sadly, this experience initially felt foreign to us but was a reminder to look up at the clouds and Mt. Shasta in the distance instead of down at our smart phones, to listen to the birdsongs instead of cars roaring down the street or e-mail notification alerts.

In the words of our innkeeper Cindy, she may go to bed at the end of the day tired from physical exhaustion because she has worked harder than she ever had, but one she gladly accepts over the exhaustion from stress.  

As you leave her inn and the town of McCloud, you will find your step a little lighter, your shoulders more relaxed, and a smile on your face.  Sometimes all that is needed is to slow down, unwind, and unplug to a simpler time. 

Fun Fact:  The tap water at McCloud is cold, crisp, and clean straight out of the tap, so refreshing that Nestle at one part wanted in on the action in an attempt to bottle it. 

 

McCloud Hotel and Sage Restaurant

408 Main Street

McCloud CA 96057

530-964-2822

Mount Shasta Lodging, Dining & Event Venue: McCloud Hotel

 

Meat Market and Tavern

231 Main Street

McCloud CA 96057

530-964-2765

Meat Market (harvestdininggroup.com)

 

White Mountain Cafe

241 Main Street

McCloud CA 96057

530-945-0499

 

Burney Falls

24898 Hwy 89

Burney, CA 96013

530-335-2777

Burney Falls Park MBFIA Home

 

McCloud Falls

McCloud River, North Street

McCloud, CA 96057

McCloud River’s Three Waterfalls – Mount Shasta Trail Association

 

Mossbrea Falls

Access Restricted

Dunsmuir, CA 96025

 

McCloud Reservoir

McCloud, CA 96057

Shasta-Trinity National Forest - McCloud Reservoir (usda.gov)

 

Historic McCloud

Main Street and its side streets

McCloud, CA 96057